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This is the question I get the most often: “How did you make that thing?”
The answer: with a 3D printer and a lot of patience.
MakerBot’s Replicator 2 is an amazing machine that allows its operator to create real versions of digital models using lasers, plastic filament, and a computer-controlled cutter. The machines are large (they take up an entire room) and expensive ($2000 or more), but if you want to print bigger or more complex creations than your MakerBot Mini can handle, it’s the only way to go.
While the Replicator 2 is able to print with plastic, one of its big drawbacks is that the model must be designed in a computer before it’s printed. The MakerBot RepRap uses a different method of 3D printing called ” fused deposition modeling ,” which allows you to create models directly in a computer file generator. The machine, named R2-3D, can be used to print multi-material objects by laying down layers of plastic filament at precise depths and orientations.
The software for this project is completely open source, so anyone can go out and download the files for free from Thingiverse . The MakerBot Replicator 2 only prints in PLA plastic, but it’s possible to convert the STL files to another format using MeshLab or OpenSCAD. The MakerBot R2-3D is able to print with both ABS and PLA plastics, but there are some limitations on which models can be printed.
After designing your model in Tinkercad, you should check it against the Makerbot Design Attributes . If your model meets all of the requirements set out by Makerbot, then you’re ready to send it off to be printed. First, though, you’ll want to prepare your file for printing.
The MakerBot Design Attributes include some facts and figures about the printability of your model. For example, anything that has a hardy surface will not be printed, including the edges of an object, internal cavities, and small parts. This rule is to prevent parts from breaking off mid-printing.
ABS is the most common plastic that’s used for 3D printing, so you’ll want to make sure your file is set up for ABS so it won’t burn out after it gets stuck in the printer. Usually these are called “structureless” or “fused” models or have a .scad script embedded inside them so they can be printed without being separated into individual parts.
Ideally, your model should be one solid piece with no holes or missing components. This ensures that the plastic will be able to act as an adhesive and stick the pieces together after printing. Other things to watch out for include low-impact support material (the plastic used to support the object while it’s printing) and overhangs (pieces of your object that extend beyond the perimeter of the print bed). You should also make sure your model has enough clearance between itself, because it can stick up out of the printer during printing. Finally, check to see if you’re including all of the tolerances that MakerBot requires.
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